
Culinary tri-color sage grows alongside perennial Geranium and fennel.
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I grow herbs mostly for their beauty. That, and their toughness as season-long dependable plants in our pots, beds and baskets.
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Rose scented Pelargonium grows near emerging Colocasia.
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I haven’t built them their own little parterre, and I don’t grow them in cute little matching terra cotta pots, either. I treat them like any other plant and let them earn their spot in my heart and in our garden.
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A newly planted Spanish lavender will soon fill this pot. It is surrounded with wild violets and wild strawberries.
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Herbs may be some of the oldest plants cultivated and passed on generation to generation and from one culture to the next. They are celebrated in story and song. They can heal us, feed us, soothe us and delight us. Herbs are intensely fragrant; a living, growing perfume.
But I would grow them even without their rich mythological and pharmacological mystique. Why? Because I can depend on them.
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The first fennel flowers of the season opend this week.
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The strong fragrance and coarse texture of many herbs makes them distasteful to the deer I want to foil. I learned in the early years of this garden that I could plant herbs in the spring, and expect them to still be merrily growing in our garden, sans critter damage, the following October. I like to believe that planting lots of fragrant herbs can also protect more desirable plants growing nearby.
They are a good investment. They bring me peace of mind.
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Basil
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But the more I tried different cultivars of favorite herbs, the more I delighted in them for their own sake. They are entertaining plants to grow. Let me explain.
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Chocolate mint
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Most herbs draw in pollinators. That means that on a sunny day, I’ll find bees, wasps, butterflies, and all sorts of bright little insects that I can’t name without a field guide hovering around them and blissing out on their sweet nectar.
As I observe and photograph the visitors, I can crush and sniff their wonderfully fragrant leaves.
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Black Swallowtail butterfly and caterpillars on fennel, August 2017
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Many herbs, like the mints and scented geraniums, produce compounds in their leaves that repel biting insects.
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Mountain mint, Pycnanthemum muticum, is a versatile herb with strongly fragrant leaves. The Garden Club of America has named it their 2018 native plant of the year.
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If a buzzy or bitey is getting too up close and personal with me, I can pinch a stem and rub the fragrant leaves on whatever skin might be exposed.
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Pineapple mint with lavender
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Mountain mint, though not so beautiful, is an especially effective insect repellent with no toxicity to harm my family or me.
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Rose scented ‘Skeleton Rose’ Pelargonium repels insects with its fragrance. Growing here in a basket with Lantana, this basket makes a tough combination for full sun.
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That same fragrance makes herbs appealing as cut flowers, too. Stems worked in with other flowers make interesting, long lasting arrangements.
My favorite herbs for the vase are Basil, Pelargoniums, Artemesia, and Salvias. The interesting colors, shapes and textures of herbal foliage pumps up any vase. Oftentimes, a stem will root in the vase and can be planted out to grow on when the arrangement is disassembled.
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Basil with pineapple mint, Lime Queen Zinnia and roses.
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Just as herbs create interesting contrasts with flowers in a vase, so they also pump up pots, baskets and perennial beds.
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White Monarda came to our garden as a gift from a gardening friend. It is edible, can be used for tea, and looks lovely in a vase. Also known as bee balm or Oswego tea, this plant is a useful North American native herb.
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Although herbs bloom, most have relatively small and insignificant flowers. With a few exceptions, like some basils, dill, borage and fennel; herbs are grown more for their leaves than for their flowers.
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Now rosemary is a delight all unto itself. Sometimes evergreen if the winter is mild, usually perennial, it delights us with its blue, winter flowers.
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Rosemary in bloom
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Rosemary often comes into bloom in late autumn, and many years I can include blooming sprigs of rosemary in our holiday wreathes in December.
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A newly planted rosemary ‘Tuscan Blue’ will triple in size by fall. Sedum ‘Angelina’ shares the pot.
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The pungent fragrance of rosemary exudes from a lovely little shrubby plant. With rosemary, as with other Mediterranean herbs, the hotter the better in summer. Growing to 4′ tall or more, a rosemary hedge by a fence or wall is possible in Zones 7b or 8 and warmer.
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An upright shrubby rosemary grows here with prostrate, creeping rosemary. Most of our rosemary plants died in our cold winter, and so I’ve had to replace them with new this spring.
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Many people grow herbs primarily for use in the kitchen. And most, but not all, are edible. Herbs generally respond well to the continual pruning that frequent use entails.
There are whole encyclopedias of information on using herbs for cooking, crafts, healing and housewifery. I’ll leave you to read them if you want to learn more.
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Creeping Rosemary makes a good groundcover, or a good ‘spiller’ in a pot in full sun.
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I get busy and forget to cut and use them, I’ll admit to you. My plants might be bushier if I used them more.
But I love watching my Pelargoniums grow huge and fill the gigantic pots I grow them in. I love watching butterfly larvae growing plump as they harvest my parsley and fennel for me. And yes, quite often the plants regenerate themselves within a few weeks once the larvae crawl off for their transformative naps.
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And so it is that I end up growing herbs much like any other garden plant; no special fuss required.
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Comphrey with Artemesia
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That said, keep in mind that herbs such as lavenders, culinary sages, thymes, rosemaries, oregano, germanders, Artemesias, Santolinas, and a few others originated in hot, mountainous areas where the soil may be a bit rocky and the rain scarce. They aren’t used to coddling, and they don’t much appreciate our muggy damp summers in Virginia.
Our soil may be a bit too acidic and heavy with clay. Our nights too damp and warm, our rain too intense. There may be some rot or mildew. Their roots may not thrive.
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There are a few simple things to do to make these Mediterranean herbs a bit more comfortable. I tend to grow many of them in pots more successfully than in our heavy clay soil.
But culture in the soil is possible. I like to dig some dolomitic lime and a little pea gravel into the planting hole before I plant a new transplant. I set the crown a little high, mounding up the back-fill around the top-most roots, but not up the stem. Then, I mulch with gravel out a few inches around the plant. I’m told that chicken grit or broken up oyster shells work well for mulching herbs, too.
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Roots of these Mediterranean herbs want good drainage. They can rot easily if left sitting in wet soil for very long. That is why it is smart to amend the soil and plant them high. If your soil is too heavy with clay, also dig in some compost before you plant, to loosen and improve it a bit.
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If planting in a pot, I mix some lime into the top few inches of the potting soil, set the plants a little high, and mulch the pot with pea gravel.
The gravel reflects sun and heat up into the plant on fine days, holds a little extra moisture during drought, and prevents soil from splashing up onto the lower leaves when it rains. The gravel mulch helps protect those lower leaves from any disease harbored in the wet soil.
When growing an herb plant with woody stems or grey to blue leaves, take these precautions if your soil and weather is like ours.
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Artemesia with lavender and Iris
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Basil, dill and cilantro are annuals. Parsley a biennial. Chives and other Alliums are perennials, even when they are harvested annually for their bulbs. All are soft stemmed and want a bit gentler treatment. They appreciate more water and richer soil… but not too rich. Herbs grown without much fertilizer have better flavor and aroma and grow more compactly.
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The Alliums are just beginning to bloom.
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Grow all of these in full sun, or the most sun you can manage. The more sun, the more growth in most cases.
Also, give them space to grow. Your little transplant fresh from its 4″ pot may look a bit small, and your new planting a bit sparse at first. But please remember that most herbs grow quickly. Mind the mature height and spread and allow space for your herbs to grow into their potential.
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Pineapple sage in its fall glory, still sending out new buds in late September 2017.
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Crowding, in our weather, makes it more likely for mold or rot to get a start where the branches stay too wet, and where air can’t easily circulate around their leaves.
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Thyme needs a good trim now and again. The stems get too long, with new growth only towards the tips.
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I wait each spring to see which of our perennial herbs made it through the winter, and which were finished off by the cold and damp soil. Ironically, most will make it through until early spring. It is those last few weeks and those last few frosts that may prove too much.
That is why I wait until I see new growth sprouting from their branches, before I cut them back. Once they are growing and the weather is milder, I can cut with confidence. Cut too soon, and a late freeze may be too much of a shock. I killed a beautiful Agastache this spring by pruning it too early.
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Breakfast at the Agastache… summer 2017.
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Cut back any obviously dead wood, and trim most of the branches by at least a third to stimulate new, healthy growth. But don’t throw all of those trimming away! Many herbs, like Artemesia will root from these stem cuttings taken in late winter or early spring. What will you lose by trying?
And there is nothing complicated in my technique. I open up a hole in the earth with my blade, insert a stem a few inches deep, and close the hole. It roots and begins growing within a few weeks. That is how I’ve spread Artemesia all around my garden over the years.
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Pineapple sage has beautiful leaves, but won’t bloom until late September. It is hardy in our garden.
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Most herbs will root from stem cuttings. You might cut several stems of basil, use most of the leaves, and root the stems in a glass of water to generate new plants over the summer. Herbs like thyme are easy to divide. Just take a stem on the outside of the plant, with some roots already growing, cut it off and plant it where its needed. Do this with most Salvias, too.
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Apple mint roots easily in water. But easier still, pull a stem with some roots attached and planted it up elsewhere.
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If you’ve shied away from planting herbs in the past, I hope you’ll try a few this year. You don’t need to be an expert gardener to succeed. Most are very easy, and forgiving.
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An heirloom Pelargonium that I managed to root from a gifted stem cutting is now out in a basket for the summer. This cultivar was brought to Williamsburg by the early colonists and grown here in the Colonial era.
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And this is the perfect time to begin, now that we are into the second week of June. Garden centers in our area have just begun to mark down their herbs by 20-30%. There are great bargains available this month as plant shops clear out their stock.
Unlike more tender plants, herbs will establish just fine in summer’s heat, so long as you don’t let them completely dry out as they grow new roots into the surrounding soil.
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Deadhead lavender, and other herbs, to keep the flowers coming all season. This is Spanish lavender, with its ‘rabbit ears’ atop the flower.
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There is always more to learn, there is always more to try, and there are always more beautiful and interesting plants to introduce in our gardens.
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Woodland Gnome 2018
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